Whether it’s a matter of room or convenience, portable table saws are the best solution for many people. With the ability to fold them up, move them around, and the power to rip construction timber they’re a mainstay on jobsites in most construction fields.
Let’s take a look at some of the best, and then I’ll help you figure out which is the best for the bed of your truck.
My Top Picks for Best Portable Table Saw
Finding the right portable table saw is largely a matter of knowing what’s out there. I have my favorites, but each of the following should suit someone’s needs and budget perfectly.
If you’re in a hurry, here’s a quick run down of my top picks for the best portable table saw in 2023:
- Top Pick – DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw (DWE7491RS)
- Top Premium Pick – SAWSTOP 10-Inch Jobsite Saw (JSS-120A60)
- Top Budget Pick – Metabo HPT Jobsite Table Saw (C10RJS)
- Bosch Power Tools 4100-10 Tablesaw
- SKILSAW SPT99-11 Heavy Duty Worm Drive Table Saw
- Delta 36-6023 10 Inch Table Saw
- BOSCH 10 In. Worksite Table Saw 4100XC-10
Top Pick – DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw (DWE7491RS)
DeWalt makes excellent tools, designed for jobsites and the black-and-yellow can be seen in most blue-collar professions. The DWE7491RS continues that tradition, being an expensive but solid choice for professionals.
This table saw has adequate cutting capacity and power, with a 32 ½” rip fence and 22” to the left of the blade. The combined total is enough to rip sheeting, and the motor handles it well. On top of that, the stand is excellent and helps move the DWE7491RS around the site without much trouble.
The main drawback to this particular saw is simple: it’s heavy. Coming in at 90lbs, the DWE7491RS is on the heavy side of things and might be harder for small people to move. That said, the great dolly-style stand makes it easier to maneuver on flat ground than you’d think.
Overall, this is an excellent example of a portable table saw. If you want something solid and aren’t concerned about high-end additions, it’s a respectable choice. On the site, it will pay for itself, as long as you’re not intimidated by its hefty overall weight.
|32 1/2 inches
|3 1/8 inches
- Durable overall construction
- The rolling stand makes it easy to move
- Rack-and-pinion fence
- 2 ½ inch dust port for a vacuum
- The coating on the table wears off quickly
- Rather heavy
The DWE7491RS is the saw I’d recommend for most entry-level professionals, get a closer look and see why!
Top Premium Pick – SAWSTOP 10-Inch Jobsite Saw (JSS-120A60)
The Sawstop JSS-120A60 is a solid saw, suitable for any kind of construction work. That much isn’t in question, but the reason that this saw is so expensive has to do with safety features rather than being a miracle saw.
The Sawstop is named for its brake, which immediately arrests the blade and lowers it below the table when contact with skin is made. It does this by sensing small changes in an electrical signal sent through the blade, stopping the blade almost instantly making it the safest saw on the market. Stitches are a best-case scenario when it comes to accidents with table saw blades.
That little sensor, and the one-use module which grabs the blade, also put this saw’s price in a league of its own. It’s also very heavy for a jobsite saw, coming in at 113lbs when you add the frame.
That said, the price is worth it if you’re ever in a situation where the saw bites you. It’s a solid saw, and perfect for those working long days. While it will pay for itself if the safety is ever needed… well, a lot of people can’t afford to pay for it upfront.
|25 1/2 inches
|3 1/8 inches
- Sawstop protection on the blade
- Solid saw overall
- Onboard accessory storage
- Integrated, durable stand
- Very expensive
- Very heavy
The JSS-120A60 is an excellent saw, but its main draw is in safety. If you’d rather pay for future injuries up front, take a peek.
Top Budget Pick – Metabo HPT Jobsite Table Saw (C10RJS)
Not everyone is able to afford a DeWalt right out of the gate. Nor does everyone need that level of portable table saw. If you’re thinking with a small budget in mind, then you may like the C10RJS. It’s a budget saw from Metabo, formerly Hitachi, with no frills but solid core function.
With that in mind, the saw performs about average compared to similar professional saws. It has an extended 35” rip fence as well, but the extra couple of inches don’t mean much in the field. It’s also easy-to-use, with well-placed switches. The soft-start is a nice touch as well, and an electric brake quickly stops the blade when powered down.
The build-quality, unfortunately, isn’t quite up to par with the majority of professional saws. It may not serve for as long as we’d like if it’s under heavy daily use. The miter gauge is also… well, useless isn’t too strong of a word but you don’t buy a budget saw for extreme accuracy either.
Overall, this is a great little jobsite saw for the price. Don’t expect it to compete with the big boys, but for someone on a budget, it’ll be a treasured tool for some time.
|3 1/8 inches
- Budget-conscious pricing
- Extended rip fence reaches 35”
- Good stand
- Soft start and motor brake
- Not up to heavy daily use
- The miter gauge is downright bad
For those who need a budget saw, Metabo is up there. Make up your own mind by checking it out.
Bosch Power Tools 4100-10 Tablesaw
Coming in with a great stand and some superior electronics, Bosch is always competitive with professionals. The 4100-10 is no exception, being a remarkably stable saw overall with a lot to offer the budding professional. It’s not perfect, but compare it to the DeWalt for the field and you may find some things you like.
The foremost attraction is the constant response circuits, which keep the RPM stable as the saw moves through even dense material. It naturally has a soft start as well and even has restart protection.
On that note, it’s also a bit more costly than the DeWalt on average. Whether or not you need the circuitry is the main tiebreaker. Also, while the stand is easy-to-use it doesn’t feel as sturdy as most like, but bracing it is easy for those with some DIY skills. Lastly, it has a relatively small rip fence at 25”.
The Bosch 4100-10 is an advanced jobsite table saw that lives up to its brand name. Check it out for contrast-and-compare before you commit to a purchase. On its own, it’s a great platform and one worthy of consideration.
|3 1/8 inches
- Constant response circuitry
- Soft start for motor
- Great overall build quality
- The stand is easy to move around when folded
- Smaller rip fence than average
- A bit expensive compared to comparable tools
If you’re a fan of advanced circuitry in your tools, this may be what you’re looking for. Go see for yourself.
SKILSAW SPT99-11 Heavy Duty Worm Drive Table Saw
Skilsaw is distinct from SKIL, the latter of which produces a line of consumer-grade tools with a sketchy reputation. Skilsaw, on the other hand, makes professional wood-working tools that dip a bit into the premium area. The big draw here is in the worm drive motor.
Worm drives produce more torque than a standard motor by a good bit. That makes this one suitable for very dense material, and the saw is built to last. It has a standard sized rip fence, but the motor configuration also lets it cut deeper.
Downsides? It’s expensive and has a larger footprint than a lot of other portable saws. Double-check if it suits your working environment.
If it does, however, this is a solid saw that’s great for working long days. The extra torque helps cut even the densest material and it’s a solid, durable tool that can last a lifetime.
|30 1/2 inches
|3 5/8 inches
- Worm drive motor
- Good sized rip fence
- Extra durable tool
- An excellent, solid stand
- Large footprint
- Rather expensive
If you’re into paying for motor quality, then you may have found your new tool. Get a closer look, and see if it’s right for you!
Delta 36-6023 10 Inch Table Saw
Durability and a moderate price combine to form a good choice for the weekend warrior. The Delta 36-6023 is no slouch, but it’s a simple saw and probably the low end of what’s capable of real professional use.
The good news is that this saw is extra durable for the price and capable of handling long days on the jobsite. Rip capacity is generous, at 32 ½”, and it’s adequate for construction timber in all dimensions.
The main problem is with precision. Double-check your calibration on the fence or you may end up sorely disappointed. There’s also a lot of plastic, which lowers the overall weight but can feel cheesy in the hands.
If you’re looking for a heavy-usage, table saw then Delta is a respectable choice. Just be aware of its limitations before buying.
|32 1/2 inches
|3 1/8 inches
- Overall cheap saw
- Good sized rip fence
- Relatively lightweight overall
- Very durable
- A bit too much plastic
- The fence needs calibration often
If all of the above sounds right for your workshop, then sneak a peek.
BOSCH 10 In. Worksite Table Saw 4100XC-10
If you’re looking for the Bosch, but a bit more advanced, then take a look at the 4100XC-10. It’s a slightly beefed-up version of the 4100-10, with a bigger table and some extra circuits to make your life easier.
The main draw is the lighter weight, having shed almost 20lbs from the bare version. It’s also got a bigger rip capacity, sitting at 30” and better placement of the power button. It’s a lot of small, quality of life adjustments that you’ll value in the field.
On the downside, it’s a little bit more expensive and it’s often a pain to assemble. Like the other Bosch table saws, the lower RPM can make it seem less powerful but the Constant Response circuitry is designed to keep it there instead of bogging down.
Straddling the line between a premium pick and just a good professional work horse saw, the Bosch 4100XC-10 is a great saw for most people. It’s just a matter of deciding if you need the small improvements over the original.
|3 1/8 inches
- Good rip capacity
- Much lighter than base model
- Tons of onboard storage
- Lower RPMs can “feel” weak
- Hard to assemble
For the upgraded Bosch experience you’re craving, or just need to look over, see the listing!
Things to Consider When Choosing the Best Portable Table Saw for Your Job
A jobsite saw differs from a stationary table saw in a couple of big ways.
They’re naturally more lightweight and mobile, and rarely underpowered. Instead, most of what’s sacrificed will end up being precise cuts. Most construction timber is fine with 1/16” or less, but they’re not for cabinetmaking.
In addition to the usual suspects, you should also consider your own build. A smaller person may not have a good time of it if they’re having to move a saw in the 90+ pound range.
A jobsite saw is a workhorse, and often the center of tooling for those who rip lumber for a living. Consider the following carefully before you commit to a final purchase.
Power, Speed, and Torque
The heart of your table saw is the motor. Indeed, the majority of your actual function will depend on the motor and any integrated electronic controls.
The motor on a 10” table saw is usually powered by a 15A motor, which provides a bit over 2 Horsepower. Speeds range from 3500-5000 RPM unloaded, which is a good range to look at. If a saw is outside of that range, you may want to figure out why.
Torque usually isn’t measured on these saws, instead, you have to rely on other’s experiences. Torque keeps the blade moving at a high rate of speed even when it encounters dense materials, like hardwoods or laminate board.
There is one surefire way to get more torque out of a table saw, however, which is a worm-drive motor. Unlike the standard “sidewinder” motor, where the blade is in-line with the motor, a worm-drive uses a specialized gear. The end result is worm-drive saws have quite a bit more torque than a standard motor.
There’s still a bit more to it: advanced circuits can also affect the way the blade performs. Soft starting motors, for instance, take a few seconds to come all the way up to speed. It’s easier on the motor and the operator to use a soft start.
Other controls, such as the Bosch responsive circuits, use sensors to manage torque application and try to keep the blade at an even speed while cutting.
While some perform better than others, in general, a 10” saw with a powerful 15 amp motor will make short work of common construction materials like 2x4s.
Accuracy is important, of course, but it’s not the end goal of a portable table saw. There’s a considerable amount of tolerance with construction materials, but it’s best to keep things as tight as possible.
Most table saws, especially portable ones, will require you to properly calibrate the fence before you begin. It’s a simple enough affair, but you’ll need to learn how to do it.
You’ll also need an accurate miter for many applications. Look for a good miter gauge out of the box, the majority of those included with saws are relatively sloppy. You should be looking for something that’s accurate to a single degree for the best results.
If the miter gauge on your chosen saw is just terrible, you can find an aftermarket one to replace it. While most stock gauges are a pain in one way or the other, some are definitely better than others.
One other factor which can affect accuracy is blade wobble. This keeps the kerf from consistently being in the right place and can reduce how accurate your cuts are overall.
If accuracy is extremely important to your end goal, you may want to switch over to a stationary saw. They’re more accurate by nature, but not as usable on jobsites due to their heavier weight… and the lack of wheels.
If you insist on superior precision but still want to use a portable saw there is one option: high-end aftermarket fences are available with much smaller margins of error than even the best native rip fence.
Set Up & Pack Up
One of the most important considerations you’ll need to make is how the saw breaks down and sets up. A jobsite saw’s main function apart from cutting is simply to be easier to unload and load back up at the end of the day.
Most portable saws come with a folding stand of some kind. The best will have the weight distributed properly, so you can cart the saw around like it was on a dolly. Lighter saws aren’t always more maneuverable, it depends a lot on the wheels, but they definitely beat out heavy saws for loading and unloading.
Some stands unfold easier than others, but any solid brand will be easy to work with.
How quickly the saw folds and unfolds is less important than maneuverability on most job sites. If you’ll need to move frequently throughout the day it may be worth it to pay special attention to the folding.
The overall footprint, when folded, is also important. Most don’t take up a ton of room, but some will fit better in a cramped workshop or truck bed better than others.
Maximum Rip Capacity
The capacity for ripping sheeting is determined by the fence and the table of the saw. You’ll see two ratings for most, with the size to the left of the blade being smaller. Rip fences are almost always on the right-hand side of the saw.
The fence extends, allowing you to get a larger sheet safely on the table. Most plywood is 4’ wide, or 48”, and the majority of saws will accommodate it with a normal fence. The only issue lies in where you can cut it while safely supporting the board.
If you don’t have the capacity to do what you need to right on the saw, you can place supports around it to make sure the board is at the same height. Do so with caution if you need to, but a bit of overhang shouldn’t cause major problems.
Blade Size and Cutting Depth
Most saws in this class will cut over 3” and less than 4”, with the average being about 3 ⅛”. That’s enough for 2x4s and sheets of plywood, but not enough to rip larger construction lumber like 4x4s in one go. You can work around that to some degree.
Keep in mind that saws cut less when they’re mitered, so a cut at 45° will be significantly less. For the most part, they’ll still safely cut a 2×4 as deep as you’ll need. After all, one of the most common sites for these saws is doing framing.
If you have something special in mind, make sure your saw can accommodate it.
10” is about as big of a blade as you’ll find on a portable. For something bigger you can use a lightweight contractor’s saw, but they’re not nearly as easy to move around the jobsite.
Fence and Stop Adjustments
The fence of your saw needs to be solid, but it should also be easy to adjust. It’s rare that a job only requires one sized width of a sheet.
Rack-and-pinion systems are a good choice, being solid and relatively quick to move. Others may have incremental adjustments, leaving you with a few different positions, or a looser system which you’ll have to measure carefully when moving.
Positioning the fence may or may not be a big deal in your case, but if it is then look for something fast and incremental.
Table saws throw sawdust everywhere, even on a jobsite they’re a way to make sure you’re running their broom overtime.
You can keep it down with a vacuum port and a shop vac. Most table saws allow you to attach a vac to a port, just check the size so you’ll know if you need an adapter when you’re planning on using it.
Some work better than others, but it also depends on the vacuum you’re using. More suction means less dust, but even the best isn’t a 100% dust-free solution.
Table saws have a bad reputation for removing bits of those using them. Most people working trades know of at least one person who’s lost a digit or two due to carelessness with a table saw.
Use your safety features and keep some ANSI-rated safety goggles on. Table saws are relatively safe tools when you stay aware of what you’re doing, but realistically people slip up after a long day on the job.
And there are plenty of ways a table saw can hurt someone. The most common fear is the blade, but kickback can also cause severe injury or death. A guard and the rest will prevent a lot of pain if someone slips up, just use them.
A riving knife is a piece of metal that sits behind the blade of the saw, holding the wood outwards when it’s been cut. It prevents the wood from pinching down and causing kickback, and it can also keep small misadjustments on your end from doing the same.
They’re standard on most table saws, and you should use yours. The only time to remove the blade is during dado cuts and others that aren’t going through the full thickness of a board.
They can seem unimportant at times, but they’re a must.
The guard for the blade should always be used. It prevents most of the common injuries from the saw blade, but some of them can be a pain.
The guard should move smoothly out of the way when you’re bringing your workpiece to the saw blade and adjust easily. Working with a stiff spring isn’t fun, especially for a long project.
The guard isn’t only there to protect your fingers, although it can prevent cuts from the side. It’s also there to prevent debris or pieces of wood from hitting the blade, which can cause them to act in an unpredictable manner.
Just double-check the guard before you buy, the majority of reputable brands will be fine.
Sawstop has a special protective device for their saws, which is expensive but very advanced. A few brands, including Bosch, have something similar in their deluxe saws.
The blade is turned into a sensor, which detects the conductivity of the material it’s touching. When the material is conductive, such as your finger, the module immediately releases, catching the blade and pulling it beneath the surface in less than 1/10,000 of a second.
The module is usually destroyed by catching the blade, as the force required to stop the blade in such a short span of time is immense. The blade is also damaged often, with SawStop recommending replacing it.
The end result? It won’t even cut a hot dog.
While they’re expensive additions, a Sawstop brake can save thousands in medical problems if you do contact the blade. They’re a robust system and won’t even start if the brake isn’t in effect, but the first time you set off the module you’ve already saved money.
They’re prohibitively expensive for some, but if you can afford it they’re an excellent option.
Whether you’re looking for a portable jobsite table saw, or just a small table saw for your home shop or garage, I hope this article has helped you find the best portable table saw for you.
In the end, there’s a portable table saw for just about everyone. I still strongly recommend looking into the DeWalt DWE7491RS, but it’s important to make sure you have exactly what you need while working.
There’s a wide array of saws out there, which of these is your favorite?